Diagnostics
No Start Diagnostic
Battery, starter, fuel, and ignition tested to find why it won't start.
Signs you need this
- Turning the key does nothing, or just clicks
- Cranks over but won't fire
- Starts sometimes and not others
- Only fails when hot, or only when cold
A no-start is usually the battery, but not always — starter, alternator, ignition switch, fuel delivery, crank sensor, and immobilizer faults all produce their own version of it.
Intermittent ones are the hardest, so tell us the pattern: hot or cold, after sitting or after driving, every time or occasionally. That narrows it faster than any scan tool.
Common questions
My car clicks but won't start — what is it?
A rapid clicking is usually a battery too flat to turn the starter. A single loud click more often points to the starter itself or its solenoid. We test the battery, the charging system, and starter draw rather than replacing parts on a guess.
The engine cranks but won't fire.
That rules out the battery and starter and moves it to fuel, spark, or timing — a fuel pump, an ignition fault, a crank sensor, or something mechanical. We test fuel delivery and ignition and scan for stored and pending codes.
Should I get a boost or have it towed?
If it starts on a boost and keeps running, drive it straight here and we'll test the battery and alternator before it strands you again. If it won't start on a boost, or it dies as soon as the cables come off, have it towed rather than risking a repeat.
Something else? Call (647) 436-5940 during shop hours and talk to an advisor.
More diagnostics
Diagnostics
Noise Diagnostic
Squeals, clunks, grinds, and rattles traced to their source.
Diagnostics
Warning Light Diagnostic
Every module scanned and the fault traced before quoting.
Diagnostics
A/C Diagnostic
A/C pressure tested, leaks located, and the system recharged.
Ready when you are
Book online in under a minute, or call the shop and talk to an advisor directly.